March 2019 63 www.bahrainthismonth.com Chef Mahipal this month DINING Hidden Gems, p70 View more info online LIZ O’REILLY I must confess that, much as I am trying to reduce my meat consumption, I’m simply not there yet. So, trying out the kebab promotion at The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain’s Indian eatery Nirvana was right up my street. To be fair, they do have a veggie option and I did give it a go, but to be honest, kebabs, for me, are all about the meat. The Tandoori Jugalbandi promo is BD30 for two and involves a selection of kebabs and breads paired with Indian hops – Jugalbandi actually means pairing. We went at lunchtime, when it’s a great quick in-and-out option, but the offer is on from noon to 11.30pm on Wednesdays and well worth a try. At this point, for those who don’t know, a little about Nirvana. Like all the Ritz restaurants, it’s tastefully decorated. Indian friends tell me it’s like an upmarket Mumbai (or, as they insist, Bombay) eatery; this can’t be bad. The seating is plush and comfortable. Lighting discreet but more than adequate to see what’s on your plate; music subdued but pleasing; and staff, friendly and knowledgeable. First to arrive at the table was a basket of poppadoms. This is usually one of my favourite parts of the whole Indian experience. But, since I’m still on the New Year health kick, I was prepared to forego the deep-fried deliciousness until our waiter pointed out that, as if made just for me, there was a selection of fried and baked. Happily, I actually preferred the spicy, crunchy baked version with their accompaniments of chutneys and minty yoghurt. Onto the main plates and our mouths watered at the sight of lamb kebabs dukkah – the name refers to the spices in which the kofta-type dish is cooked. Between myself and my dining companion, we managed to identify, we think, sesame seeds, cumin, mint and a nut of some kind. Chef Mahipal smiled, but did not share his secrets! Suffice to say, whatever it was, it was darn good and my pal was so impressed that she even finished up the one I had left on my plate (that health kick again, I’m afraid). A minced chicken with jalapeño option followed. I have to admit, I found this one a little bland and was more than happy when it was followed by big, juicy, tasty prawns. Lightly coated in slightly sweet sticky sauce, reminiscent of sweet chilli, they were cooked to perfection and, with their dense meatiness, extremely filling. The veggie option of tandoor cooked broccoli and paneer looked good and tasted even better – and it was great fun to take advantage of the open kitchen to actually see it heading into the tandoor minutes before it arrived on our plates. If you’ve ever wondered what the Indian version of cauliflower cheese might taste like, this is it. I’m a big fan of the Western version, so to try the delightfully fresh broccoli and paneer straight from the oven and again with the benefit of aromatic spices, really added to our foodie experience. We ended the meal with the signature chicken dish Nirvana Tikka Kebab. Piquant, piping hot and tender – it’s no wonder this has become one of the restaurant’s specialities and it’s something I could happily have eaten alone with just the basket of assorted nans that accompanied it. A word to the wise. These sharing portions look small but at the end of our meal both myself and my companion were more than replete and the addition of the ale pairing left us both so relaxed that I wished I’d booked the afternoon off. A Meaty Treat Time Out at Trattoria, p64 Michelin on the Menu, p66 F1 Grand Brunch, p67 Plant-Based Flavours, p68
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