60 February 2019 this month DINING Gloriously Gourmet, p62 Flavours of India, p65 View more info online Catch of the Day, p66 Take a Culinary Class, p68 Liz O’Reilly discovered that there’s a stunning change in the air at one of Bahrain’s favourite Italian restaurants, Cico’s. Chef Cyrille Troesch has worked with a number of food legends, such as Michel Roux, Gerard Boyer and Raymond Blanc – for whom he was executive chef at Le Petit Blanc at the Queens Hotel, Cheltenham. And now he’s the director of food and beverage at Cico’s. Just take a minute to let that sink in. Yes, folks, this much-loved Bahrain institution, that’s been serving islanders wholesome Italian fare for almost 40 years, is upping its culinary game, and in a big way. And, when someone of that calibre invites you to check out some additions to his menu, the only possible answer is “when?” Arriving on a quiet lunchtime, the shift in atmosphere was immediately evident. The staff, wearing jauntily placed straw fedoras and each rechristened with an appropriately Italian-sounding name, were buzzing. Not overly officious but eager to serve and please, their interactions with their new boss demonstrating a sense of fun. A bread basket – all homemade – quickly arrived at our table, accompanied by, what my dining companion declared, some of the best tapenade on the island. Tart with vinegar but with the richly blended flavour of the olives, anchovies and garlic still instantly recogniseable. Chef Cyrille had prepared our menus and I was dismayed to discover one of the starters was Fois Gras. Yes, I eat meat, but, because of the production method, this is something I’ve always avoided having eaten it only once, by mistake. However, I was about to get a big surprise. When I voiced my concerns, the chef explained that he, indeed, shares them and took the delicacy off his menu many years ago. Now though, no doubt due to market pressure, there are a small number of farms in France and Spain producing non-force-fed Fois Gras. He not only uses it, but has the certificate to prove it. Be still my beating heart! So, à table to a beautifully presented salmon carpaccio and the aforementioned Fois Gras. Unlike the paté I had mistakenly consumed in the past, this was not overly fatty but rather incredibly smooth and comforting; happy-making on the tastebuds, if that’s even a word. Both strongly flavoured and tender at the same time. The salmon presented the perfect texture but was a little bland for both our palates. When mentioned to the chef, this elicited not a tantrum but rather the phrase “I’m not precious, perhaps you are right, maybe I will try it with a little aged balsamic”. The vinegar added by my friend did indeed do the trick. As an additional course, we were served a whole Canadian lobster, tender juicy meat dripping with flavour. My companion even enjoyed the cauliflower that accompanied it, much to her own surprise. Plus Ça Change, Plus C’est La Même Chose
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