96 August 2018 www.bahrainthismonth.com lifestyletravel Kyrgyzstan was one of several routes for the old Silk Road through the Tianshan and the Pamir-Altai Mountains. The Kyrgyz are a TurkicMongol people who live primarily in the mountainous regions of Central Asia, where their traditional livelihood was that of pastoral nomadism. In 1991, Kyrgyzstan declared independence from Moscow and the people have changed tremendously since then. Although the country has been modernised to an extent, their culture is still greatly influenced by their nomadic heritage and agricultural livelihood. My journey began once I had moved from the capital, Bishkek, towards Chon Kemin Valley. Travelling through, one cannot help but be captivated by its natural beauty and magnificent landscapes. To this day, the Kyrgyz are still a semi-nomadic people and maintain a co-dependent relationship with their horses. Since the country is 90 per cent mountainous, horses are essential as a means of transportation. They are also utilised for various tasks such as sports, games and shepherding. Horse meat is a staple protein eaten commonly throughout the country along with kymyz, a traditional Kyrgyz drink made from horse’s milk. For two days, I stayed in a guesthouse in Karool-Dobo village and then later with a hospitable Kyrgyz family who opened their doors to visitors a few years ago. To truly immerse yourself within a new culture, one must communicate with locals. Living with a Kyrgyz family was an invaluable experience and I was fortunate enough to gain a broader perspective on their culture. While there, I attended a buzkashi match. The word literally means “goat grabbing” and buzkashi is the national sport of Kyrgyzstan. It’s similar to a game of polo; however, rather than playing with sticks and a ball, they use the carcass of a goat to drag and throw. A horse may be trained for up to five years before playing its first game. Another unique and entertaining sport I witnessed was kyz kummai which translates to “girl chasing”. It usually starts with a young man on horseback who waits at the starting line. A young woman, also mounted, starts her horse galloping behind him. When she passes, the young man may start his horse galloping. The two race towards a finish line and if the man is able to catch up before the finish line, he may reach out to the woman and steal a kiss, which constitutes victory. However, if the woman reaches the finish line first, she turns around and chases the man and, if in range, she may beat him with her whip! After my taste of national sport, I was keen for a taste of traditional food. A short visit to Tegirmenti village was arranged for me to meet a family who are well known for baking the traditional Kyrgyzstani bread. The smell and taste of freshly baked bread was an unforgettable treat for my palate. In Karool-Dobo village, I spent some time with a housewife, Boroson, in her backyard while she was milking the cows. Her agrarian KYRGYZSTAN Through A Lens Intrepid traveller and photographer Sawsan Taher shares thoughts and pictures from her latest trip to a former Soviet republic that’s brimming with amazing scenery and friendly people.
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